THE CLIMBER

THE CLIMBER
RIP DOUG SCOTT'S


...This book comes out of the novel's content but in memory of one year of the death of DOUG SCOTT, the Legend of the Himalayan Mountain Climber World....


Doug Scott is one of the best climbers in the world with incredible mountaineering achievements. Its hiking trail stretches across many of the world's leading mountains, including the Himalayas. Setting up the world's tallest bivouac and surviving on a mountain with two broken legs are just two of his epic tales. The legend has passed away a year ago to the eternal ascent to meet the Khaliq.


RIP DOUG SCOTT'S


The sad news blew this morning a year ago in the mountaineering world when the veteran of one of the best mountaineering legends in the world, Doug Scott, breathed his last at his home in Cumbria. DOUG KEITH SCOTT is one of the largest climbers owned by the UK in particular and the World in general. He has been battling brain cancer for years. And on the morning of December 07, 2020, Doug's fight ended peacefully in his bed.


Doug Scott is known as one of the best and greatest mountaineers the UK has. He shares adventures with other big names such as Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Dougal Haston, Alex MacIntyre, and so on. Doug Scott's hiking trail stretches across many of the world's leading mountains. In dramatic words, Doug Scott was indeed a legend on a mountain.


Doug Scott recorded many special climbs throughout his career on the mountain. He traveled all over the world on his incredible climbing journey.


Doug carved his name with a perennial on giant mountains like Karakoram and the Himalayas. On the other hand, he is also considered one of the pioneers in alpine style climbing in the Himalayas.


Some of Doug Scott's most significant mountaineering trails include when he and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to reach Everest's summit via the southwest side in 1975.


Or when he managed to survive with two broken legs on Mount Batha Brakk in 1977. Also when of course when he made it to the top of Shishapangma through Right Hand Couloir in 1984 through the southwest side along with Alex MacIntyre and Robert Baxter Jones.


As a reminder of his extraordinary work on the throne of the world climb,


here we quote 5 of the most amazing climbs of a Doug Scott version of Akasaka Outdoor.


• the first event that made Doug Scott's name legendary was in 1975, when he and Dougal Haston made it to the top of Everest via the southwest side as a first ascent.


At the time, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston were not the only British climbers to reach the summit. In addition to them, there are also names such as Peter Boardman, Mick Burke and Pertemba Sherpa. On this climb Mick Burke was killed and disappeared shortly after reaching the summit.


But what makes spectacular in the climb led by Chris Bonington is not the peak achievement achieved by the climbers. But nevertheless, the, the historic and legendary event occurred when Doug Scott and Dougal Haston managed to descend safely after spending one frozen night in a bivouac just 100 meters from the summit of Everest.


The bivouac used by Doug Scott and Dougal Haston was claimed to be the highest bivouac on earth at the time. With sagging air temperature tens of degrees below minus, the, the unharmed survival and descent abilities of Doug Scott and Dougal Haston have proved an incredible human endurance on top of the mountain.


• the second event that catapulted Doug Scott's name as the world's best mountaineer was when he managed to descend safely from The Ogre in the condition of broken legs on his expedition in 1977. The Ogre or Batha Brakk Survival is one of the stories of human strength surviving in the harsh weather decays of the mountains.


Batha Brakk is a mountain peak in Pakistan with a contour that is not much different from mountains such as Trango Tower, Nameless Tower or Shipton Spire. To reach the peak that soars to a height of 7000 meters, a mountain climber must have excellent endurance and also excellent rock climbing skills.


The 1977 expedition to Batha Brakk included 6 climbers, with two of them being Doug Scott and Chris Bonington. After a grueling and days-long struggle, the two made it to the top when it was almost night.


Forced to go down quickly, Doug Scott in an accident broke both legs (in the ankle), while Bonington also broke one of his ribs from hitting a rock. In injury and full of misery both keep trying to get down to base camp.


Due to his inability to walk, Doug Scott sometimes forced to crawl so that his knees hurt. However, he survived and managed to survive.


the world's best mountain climbers


• the third highest mountain in the world, Mount Kangchenjunga, is the third highest mountain after Everest and K2. The climb to this mountain is never easy and he is famous enough to prey on the great climbers of the world. Two names that are quite popular and killed in Kangchenjunga for example are Wanda Rutkiewicz of Poland and Benoit Chamoux of France.


In 1979, Doug Scott, along with Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker, set out for Kangchenjunga and chose the northern ridge as their climbing field.


Prior to the arrival of these three great British climbers, there were only two major summit achievements of Kangchenjunga that were successfully done, namely in 1955 (first ascent) and 1977 by the Indian expedition. While some other expeditions around that year targeted other peaks in Kangchenjunga such as Yalung Kang, and so on.


Peter Boardman, Joe Tasker and Doug Scott reached the top of Kangchenjunga on May 16, 1979. This climb is very impressive because it set three records at once, namely; climbing the summit of Kangchenjunga through the north side, climbing the third summit of Kangchenjunga throughout history or third ascent and, as well as, first ascent in Kangchenjunga without using oxygen cylinders.


• the fourth ascent of Changabang mountain, Doug Scott is back in partnership with Chris Bonington. In addition to these two legends of British climbers, also present in the expedition in Changabang is Don Whillans, one of the other great British climbers. The expedition reached the summit on June 4, 1974 as the first ascent.


Compared to other climbs, the success of the first ascent in Changabang is actually not so significant for Doug Scott. Especially at that time they made the climb through the side of the climb which is considered the easiest to reach. And this also makes sense because it is a first ascent effort that does prioritize peak achievement as the main goal.


But what is quite special about this climb is because Changabang is one of the mountains that are considered difficult in the Himalayas. Some of these mountain climbs are often regarded as legendary achievements, as ever done by Alex MacIntyre, Voytek Kurtyka, Alex MacIntyre in 1978.


Or also when another climb from Changabang conducted by Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman in 1976 which was later told in the book The Shining Mountain.


• the next mountaineering trail significant enough to remember Doug Scott's pioneer in the world of mountaineering was when he made an impressive ascent of Shishapangma mountain in 1982. Doug Scott partnered with Robert Baxter Jones and Alex MacIntyre.


What's so interesting about climbing Doug Scott and his two friends on this mountain?


First up is the first ascent climb through the southwest side of the notoriously difficult and highly technical Shishapangma mountain. The route created by Doug Scott and his team is also called British Couloir or British Route, or also sometimes called Righ Hand Couloir mountain Shishapangma.


The second interesting thing about this climb is because it is done alpine style, without oxygen cylinders and without sherpa.


While the third thing that is no less interesting is this is part of the pioneer of alpine style climbing in the Himalayas which one of the main characters is Alexander MacIntyre and Doug Scott himself.


^^^Cited from Akasaka Outdoor^^^


^^^rewritten 07 DES 2021^^^


RIP DOUG KEITH SCOTT


^^^sang LEGEND MOUNTAINEERING world.^^^